Refugiums are a type of natural filtration.  They are made up of a few different components: a drip tray or sponge that acts as your mechanical filtration, an equipment section that can hold your protein skimmer/heater etc..., an area for your return pump, and an area with a deep sand bed (usually 3 to 5 inches deep and lighted on most applications).  For smaller systems there are hang on versions that do not include the filtration components.

Refugiums offer many advantages over other types of filtration for your fish tank.  A lighted refugium offers space to grow different types of macro-algae without having to worry that herbivores will eat them.  Growing macro-algae is a natural way of reducing phosphates and excess dissolved organics in your tank.   The deep sandbed in your refugium also helps complete the nitrogen cycle by housing the beneficial bacteria that changes nitrate (a common problem in many tanks) into harmless nitrogen gas that is dissipated into the air.  Refugiums also provide a protected space to grow live foods for finicky fish that refuse to eat prepared foods.  This area can also be used to separate fish or corals that may be fighting.

Refugiums help provide fish and corals with THE MOST nutritious food available, which in turn helps keep your fish and corals healthy and looking their best.  Although refugiums usually are used on reef tanks, FOWLR tanks (Fish Only With Live Rock) can also benefit greatly from them.

Without a doubt, we have refugiums on our home tanks.

 

Hair algae is a problem as common as it is aggravating.  Prevention is the best way to beat an algae bloom.  The most common reason for an algae bloom is an elevated level of phosphate, nitrate, or dissolved organics in the water.  If the levels are controlled, your tank will remain hair algae free.

 

Phosphate is introduced into your tank in a several ways, and the most common is through your water supply.  Using high quality reverse osmosis water is the easiest way to prevent the introduction of phosphates in this manner.

 

Nitrate, phosphate, and dissolved organics are introduced by the foods we all use to feed our fish and corals.  The solution to this is moderation.  Even though we all love to see the feeding frenzy that occurs when the tank is fed, feedings should be limited to an amount that can be totally consumed within 2 to 3 minutes. Depending on what type of fish you have, they may be fed either once or twice daily.  When feeding corals and invertebrates liquid foods, the directions on the bottle should be followed carefully.  If used incorrectly, these liquid foods are often nicknamed "liquid pollution".

 

The most common way to control nitrate is by performing small frequent water changes.  Normally, a 20% water change per month is recommended.  Preferably, a 5% change per week, or 10% bi-weekly is recommended.  Larger more frequent water changes are needed if nitrate levels exceed fifty parts per million to prevent the possible loss of fish and corals.  A quality refugium can also be used to help control excessive nitrate in your system.

Snails and crabs (AKA the cleanup crew) can also be helpful in controlling an algae bloom.  Unfortunately, they are only part of the solution.

 

 

Another stressor is not having ample swimming space or hiding places.  Many species of fish in the aquarium trade are not suited for captivity in the aquarium.  IT IS A MYTH THAT A FISH WILL ONLY GROW TO THE SIZE TANK IT IS IN!!  Let us know what size tank you have, and we can help you select the most appropriate fish for your mini-ecosystem.  Some of the most beautiful and interesting creatures in our oceans are also the smallest.  Re-designing the rockwork or decorations in the tank can also help reduce stress.

 

Poor water quality is another cause of stress.  Elevated levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate can compromise the immune system, which can leave fish vulnerable to parasites, fungus, and bacterial infections.